
Notes about Parts

I strongly suggest that you socket all the parts on the board. Since the 020 and the 881 make up most of the price for the board, its a good idea not to scimp on the sockets especially the 020, 881, xtal and dual pin header. Gold Augat machine sockets are great. The Amiga 1000 is a very noisy machine, good quality sockets will help reduce the noise.
You must buy atleast 16 meg. 020 & 881 to guarantee proper performance. I have tested the lucas board at 16 Meg. and it works well, however some of the people who have built the board are running just fine at 20 Meg. using 16 Meg. parts. We have tried installing 25 Meg. parts and have had some limited success, but as of this time  I've done little testing. If you have the parts please try it, and let me know how it goes. Although these higher speeds are possible the board was designed for operation at 16 Meg. so be adventureous at your own risk and expence.
If you didn't buy the pals from me make sure you use -B2 pals. I have used both National and MMI and they work fine. The pal equations in the pals directory will complile with CUPL. If you are having any problems let me know and I will modem you the JEDEC files. One of the things I would like to try and haven't yet for operation above 16 Meg. is using -D2 parts for the pals.
The four discrete TTL parts, with the exception of U9 must be F parts. (More about U9 later)
The Caps should be of the type specified. You could use tants for the .47 parts if you cannot find them in monolithic.
It is important to use the 330 ohm and 220 ohm resistors as specified. They are standard for TTL clock termination.
The 30 ohm resistors are used to help control the over and under shoot on the control lines *UDS, *LDS, R/*W, and *AS. 
The 16 Meg clock oscillator should be inserted into a gold socket. When you buy your parts you may want to pick up a 20 meg. xtal. Half the people so far are getting away with it even though they are using 16 Meg. 020's and 881's.
The part you will need for U9 varies from one Amiga to another. Buy one each of 7474, 74LS74, 74S74, and 74ALS74. I will explain in the checking_it_out file how to determine which one of these you should use and why. (The're cheap)

Soldering

If you haven't soldered up a board before, find someone who has. It is a simple job bit requires some degree of manual dexterity and a good fine tip iron. Everyone has their own method. I start with the sockets, then do the caps and resistors and then the two connectors. If everything is on hand you can do an excellent job in about an hour. This is an important stage, don't rush it.

Dual Pin Header

Unless your in the BIZ the connector which connects the Lucas board to the 68000 socket can be a bitch to find. However it is pretty easy to make one up yourself from readily available parts. The easiest method is to buy two 64 pin 68000-like sockets (again gold is best) and connect them together with 64 bits of wire. The cutoffs from capacitors and resistors are ideal. The distance between the two sockets should be about 0.6 inches. Basically you want to raise the Lucas board to the same height as the daughter board. I suggest you cut four bits of wire, attach them to the four corners of the socket and see if the board is of the correct height. Once this is done you can cut 60 more bits of wire and install them between the sockets. Test the height again, if its OK I suggest you solder in the four corner posts (wires) then solder the assembly to the bottom (solder side) of the LUCAS board. DO NOT use .025 sqaure posts this will permanently destroy your 68000 socket. 
  When you put in the tant capacitors make sure you observe the correct polarity. Positive always goes to the square pad. Note C19 has no square hole, the positive side of the cap goes to the terminal closest half inch hole in the board. If you still confused get out an ohm meter an make sure the plus side of the Tants is connected to the 5 volt rail (pin 20 of U4). 
